How to Choose the Right Ratchet Straps | Sizes & Ratings - UK Lifting Store Ltd

How to Choose the Right Ratchet Straps: Sizes, Ratings and Safe, Legal Load Restraint

How to Choose the Right Ratchet Straps: Sizes, Ratings and Safe, Legal Load Restraint

Bef Jordan |

Buying ratchet straps looks simple until you are stood in front of a loaded van or trailer wondering whether what you have got is strong enough, legal, and the right type for the job. Pick the wrong strap and at best the load shifts; at worst it comes loose on the motorway and you are liable. This guide walks through the things that actually matter when you choose ratchet straps: what the ratings mean, what size and fittings to get, how many you need, and what the law expects.

First, a Safety Point: Restraint Is Not Lifting

Ratchet straps are made for one job: holding a load down and stopping it moving while it is transported. They are not lifting equipment and must never be used to lift or suspend a load. Lifting needs gear rated and certified for the purpose, such as lifting slings, which are marked with a Working Load Limit and inspected under LOLER. Keep the two jobs, and the two types of kit, firmly apart.

Understand the Ratings Before the Price

The number that matters on a load-restraint strap is its Lashing Capacity, or LC, shown in decanewtons (daN) on the label. This is the maximum tension the strap is rated to hold in normal use, and it is the figure you match to your load. You may also see the Standard Tension Force (STF), which is how much pre-tension the ratchet applies, and the breaking strength, which is the point of failure and is typically around twice the LC. Do not buy on breaking strength alone; the LC is your working figure. A genuine load-restraint strap will carry an EN 12195-2 label stating these values. If a strap has no label and no rating, treat it as unrated and do not rely on it.

Match the Strap to the Job

Width is the quickest guide to strength. Lighter ratchet straps around 25mm wide suit smaller loads such as furniture in a van, a motorbike, or luggage on a roof rack, with an LC of a few hundred daN. Step up to 35mm and 50mm straps for pallets, plant, building materials and anything heavy on a trailer or lorry, where the LC runs into the thousands. The end fittings matter too: S-hooks are the everyday choice, claw hooks grip rope rails and anchor points on lorries and trailers, and D-ring or endless straps suit awkward shapes where you loop the strap back on itself. For lighter jobs, shorter 25mm ratchet straps with S-hooks are often all you need, so you are not wrestling metres of spare webbing.

How Many Straps Do You Need?

Never rely on one. As a minimum use two straps, and for anything long, tall or heavy you will need more. The principle behind the standard (EN 12195-1) is that the combined rated capacity of your straps, together with the friction between the load and the deck, has to be enough to stop the load sliding or tipping under braking, cornering and acceleration. In practice that means matching the total LC to the weight of the load and how it could move, not just throwing one strap over the top. Spread the straps across the load, use anchor points that are themselves rated, and keep the angles sensible so the strap is pulling the load down onto the bed rather than just sideways.

Staying on the Right Side of the Law

In the UK, drivers and operators are responsible for securing every load, and the DVSA can issue fixed penalties, stop a vehicle or prosecute where a load is not properly restrained. An insecure load is also an offence under the Road Traffic Act and can invalidate insurance if something goes wrong. The expectation is straightforward: use the right number of rated, undamaged straps for the weight, secured to sound anchor points, so nothing can move. Buying straps that are properly labelled and rated is the easy first step to staying compliant.

Look After Them, and Know When to Bin Them

Webbing wears. Check straps before each use and take any out of service if you find cuts, fraying, chemical damage, heat glazing, or a ratchet that does not hold or release cleanly. A damaged strap can fail well below its rating, so replace rather than risk it, and use edge protectors over sharp corners to stop the webbing being cut under tension. Store them dry and out of direct sunlight, because UV steadily weakens the fibres over time.

Still Not Sure What You Need?

If you are weighing up sizes, ratings or fittings for a particular load, it is worth a quick check before you buy rather than guessing. Browse the full ratchet straps range or get in touch with our team, and we will point you to the right strap for the job, the vehicle and the weight you are moving.